As the head of Y/PROJECTfor a year, the Belgian Glenn Martens offers a very nineties silhouette but never the less anchored in the present. The nonchalant allure is seen across the loose fitting clothes such as the long off the shoulder coats and the large trousers which leaves a techno-sportswear spirit at the forefront by the use of latex, lycra or PVC. The designer reminds us that the pressed urban also likes to party with sparkle, in head to toe looks or by choosing an accessory such as an adjustable collar. At a push the adjustable cuts, explained by the passing architect Glenn Martens, combines the softness of the materials and originality of details like the metallic discs and dents/knots which function as buttons. To note: the elastic waists on the trousers, the pleats on the shirts which bring suppleness and comfort.